Yogjakarta:
Streets full of cars and other motorbikes, so many gas-powered
and pedal rickshaws cutting closer than imaginable. The smell of gas and warmth
and the wind whipped up by our movement. Weaving through the trucks stopped at
lights. Illogical patterns and left-side driving. Passages through tunnels in
the walls around the palace area. Families of two, three, four and a dog on one
scooter. Food vendors on the sides of the road and narrow and uneven or absent
sidewalks. Chaos and control.
Rural outskirts:
Long flat runs through the rice fields. Greens brighter, greener
than anything I have ever seen. Chickens in the road, roosters. Bicycles packed
high in the front and back with long strands of something- sugarcane? Their
riders shaded under wide cone woven caps while my hair mats down under a
motorcycle helmet. Up into the mountains, smaller roads, steeper and rocky.
Open homes and people spilling slowly and occasionally out. Getting lost. Help
from a group of young men, one who leads us back to the main road, too much
construction here. Too steep, I get off and walk sometimes just to make sure.
Higher the greens are darker, the trees thick. Caught in a downpour of huge
drops of warm rain, we stop up at a cafĂ© that is someone’s house, are offered
shelter, water, fried tofu in the simplest living room. On the way back, clearer
views of tiered fields for cultivation, more palm trees, more rain.
Bali:
A hand on Katie’s waist and one on the phone, pulled in
tightly to track directions. Amazing to me that Google Maps works out here. Bright
colors between palms and banana trees, Hindu gods at the end of the street and shrines
and offerings from the sidewalks and tall bamboo Penjor poles curve into the open sky and dangle flowers and coco
leaves above our heads headed towards Ubud. Dogs in the streets too, so many
more here on Java that she points them out. They are unafraid. The sun is hot
and my toes burn, but my upturned helmet fills with rain when we rest and drink
fruit things in town. The roads to the temple are similar to outside Yogja, but
better travelled. More advertisements. More people, so many more people in the
smaller shop-lined streets up to the monkey forest that getting back on the road
is a relief. Sunset over the rice fields and through the outline of residential
homes. Taillights stretching and dancing.